AMORE - A 34' Daysailing/Cruising Sloop designed by David Ryder-Turner
We were excited to be building a really lovely 34' daysailing/cruising sloop designed by David Ryder-Turner (see Two Yawls in "New Classic Yacht Construction"). David has drawn exceptionally good looking yachts that have been very fast. His specialty is drawing yachts in the William Fife style, and he does this extremely well. As David has catalogued the Fife plans collection, he is a leading expert on Fife's designs. Fife was the Praxiteles of yacht designers. His yachts were very fast as well. This 34' sloop design is reminiscent of Fife's double-ended 50' EVENLODE built for Colin Ratsey and the lovely the 72' LATIFA.
This is the contruction plan we followed:
1) The lofting (drawing the lines and construction full size on the lofting floor) will be done first. From the lofting we will fabricate the various members of the backbone in preparation for setting it up on the molds. The members of the backbone and the deadwood will be bolted with bronze bolts. The keel will be lead with the planking rabbetted directly into it. The stern stem, horn timber, and stem will be laminated mahogany. The stern post will be probably be heart pine. The deadwood might well be heart pine. The floor timbers will probably be heart pine.
2) Also from the lofting will be made the "scrive" board for the shapes of the frames. We will steam the frames on the scrive board and then assemble them with the floor timbers, and spalls above the sheer, and diagonal spalls to stabilize their shape.
3) Then we will set up the backbone (stem, keel, horn timber, sternpost, deadwood, and stern stem. We will then set up the frame assemblies. At the same time the backbone is being set up we can be fabricating the vertical V-groove bulkheads, and other paneled members of the interior. Although most traditional American interiors would probably have been painted white with varnished mahogany trim, it would also to be traditional to have varnished mahogany, cypress, or cedar. Varnished red cypress was often used for interiors by Nat Herreshoff because it is both light in weight and in color, but has quite nice contrast in the grain. Black walnut would look very elegant set off by some creamy white. Perhaps one might paint the bulkheads creamy white and have the fore and aft paneling, like the settee fronts, varnished black walnut to make a very elegant interior.
4) The planking is the next task. We are planning to plank in old growth Douglas Fir We expect to get lengths that would allow full length planks with no butts. We will tight seam the planking and roll some cotton wicking into the seam. Or, we may plank with caulked heart pine up to the turn of the bilge, and then plank the topsides with tight seam Douglas fir.
5) The deck frame will then be installed. This will begin with the installation of the clamp, a fore and aft member slightly under the sheer line upon which the ends of the deck beams will be supported. We are anticipating using Douglas fir. We can get very nice tight grain old growth Douglas fir. It is our experience that the faster growing fir rots easily, while the old growth fir is a very rot resistant wood. The deck beams will be fitted to the clamp. They will be of an elliptical arc camber. Also at this time the bilge stringers would be fitted. They are another set of fore and aft members that duplicate the clamps, but down along the turn of the bilge. They are usually wider and thinner than the clamps so as not to create a pressure point on the frames. Sometimes two bilge stringer planks are used to spread this load out even further.
6) The deck will be tongue and V-groove cedar with the V-grooves facing down to be exposed in the cabin. There are two options. One is to canvas cover the cedar deck as would be traditional. The other is to put a thin layer of Bruynzeel mahogany plywood (or the equivalent) on top of the cedar, and then covering it with dynel and epoxy. If the dynel is squeegeed out pretty dry the texture and look of canvas. The centerline of the deck will have a varnished mahogany king plank. There will also be varnished mahogany covering boards. If one wanted to reduce maintenance, one might eliminate the varnished king plank and covering board.
7) The trunk cabin, the flush fore deck hatch, and the deck and cockpit joiner work will be varnished mahogany. The cockpit will be open but the cockpit sole will be water tight. There will be a sump below the cockpit sole to drain the cockpit. There will be a bridge
deck before the companionway that will have scuppers high enough to drain the cockpit down to their level.
8) The spars will be hollow of Sitka spruce.
9) We will explore the idea of using a Vitus electric 4.4 HP motor engine with the shaft offset, on htis boat, but a small diesel would also go nicely in her.
10) The plumbing system will be simple with a hand pump for the galley. The WC should be a reliable Wilcox skipper. The water tank can be under the settee seat.
11) For the topsides paint we like Epifanes #24 Nautiforte creamy white enamel. The anti- fouling bottom paint might be the traditional red or green. The deck joiner work and all other exterior varnish would be Epifanes. The canvas (or dynel) deck might be a light gray, or a sand color. The interior finish will be determined later, but the underside of the deck and trunk cabin might be the #24 Epifanes creamy white, and the deck and house beams varnished.
12) Hardware will be traditional bronze, primarily by Jim Reineck.
13) The cockpit is designed to fit several adults comfortably.
14) The interior will have an enclosed head and two settee berths. Forward will be for sail and other stowage. There will be a small, simple galley.